Wandering the bazaar of Sulaymaniyah didn't seem foreign enough so it was through exploring random side streets that we got pulled into the local tailor store by Ali (the tailor) and his mates. Despite our lack of needs for new suits we were quickly offered rounds of tea, lingering long enough to take in the various photos documenting Ali through the years. Always worth exploring.

The gates of Hawary Shar resemble that of the Arc de Triomphe, something that will be there for the ages much like this bunch of friends. Each morning I would pass with my mere Kurdish offering a hello and receiving a warm one back. The simple assurance of their presence offered a good start as I passed on my way to the construction site. If only my Kurdish extended to finding out more about their informal gate keeper duties.

As James ducked into the local eatery for his umpteenth shawarma I stood outside taking the opportunity for some people watching. This local man seemed to be doing the same only his permanency seemed to suggested it was a daily activity. His stoic nature prevented me from asking if it was ok if he moved to a more simple plain background, well that and I didn't want to interrupt his routine. At least the lighting was good.

Taking more back streets of the bazaar in Sulaymaniyah a gun shop soon got attention. Just the normal type of shop with various automatic options. Not looking at making any purchases the men over the road soon offered a distraction. A scene that due to their characters and traditional dress seemed to be set up. The guns were soon forgotten.

Could've stayed taking photos of these locals for much longer but was keen to not push my luck too much. They took it in their stride making it seem that it was a common occurrence for the numerous other tourists to stop and do the same.

Taking cliche photos of these very inviting Suli (Sulaymaniah) locals with me. An experience that was very common through the travels of Iraq with locals noticing the camera I was often pulled aside with clear indications it was to be a photo will all of us. Just hoping the worry beads aren't a sign of his stress.

Nightly trips into the bazaar of Sulaymaniyah inevitably involved numerous cups of chai and who better to get served by the most engaging of them all. A man who took his role and product very serious and going by the locals surrounding his cart it seemed to be appreciated. In the end I am not really not sure how much each chai costs as the glasses were continually topped up.

Joining the locals in Saray Square, Sulaymaniyah. A space where men (and only men) came using chai as an excuse to catch up and socialise. The staff quickly assured a table (stool) and tea with the typical cubes of sugar was placed in front of you. It offered the space and time to slow and take in the bustling pedestrian center of town. Once done your cups were swiftly cleared in anticipation of the next guests. Probably men.

No shortage of shawarmas in Sulaymaniyah, Iraq. Either chicken or lamb placed in bread and then it was help yourself to the plethora of toppings included an array of fermented vegetables. All nearly made it seem healthy if you could resist the second or third.

An attempt to capture the beautiful man who continually fed us free soup despite our continual attempts to pay. Felt bad going back based on the enticing flavour not the costs! With the camera out some random Sulaymaniyah locals joined in for the shot. I wasn't arguing with the policeman's inclusion.

It was easy when walking back from the skate park construction site each day to have the head down with the sole intent of getting 'home' for a cold shower. It was the fortune of finishing during daylight hours that you could take in your surrounds that little bit more. On this day it was the sight of these men having their afternoon meeting, perhaps more of a social catch up. Each were happy to have their photo taken in exchange of a handshake. Very hospitable Iraqi locals.

Buying fish in Iraq works like this... Find people milling about a truck in the center of town. On the back of this truck is a water filled container which houses numerous fish. Indicate an approximate size, the fishmonger plucks this one out of the water and with a wack of a PVC pipe the fish is killed and ready for filleting. A one stop shop that going by the indifference of the locals is the normal way of buying fish. I don't think they understood our curiosity.

Watching the day end in the hills that surround Sulaymaniyah, Iraq. Sitting hillside with locals some of which also appreciated the view of their immense city whilst others chose the spot to shoot their guns. One way to break the silence and peacefulness.

Trying my best to capture the landscape of northern Iraq. The mountains seemed to serve as a nice distraction from the oncoming traffic that the taxi continually toyed with whilst doing 160km/h along a very narrow road. Due to the conditions a fast shutter speed was selected in preference to asking him to slow down. If we did stop the closeness of the mountains would've tempted me to discover what was on the other side and on then on the other side of the next inevitable range. Despite the potential for landmines it might've been the more calming option.

I've often found myself on an international border wondering what's on the other more adventurous side with South and North Korea being an example. This time around I found myself on this side, being in Iraq with Iran on the other. Not to discount Iran. This time around the taxi did stop and allowed myself and Jerry to wander in the fields to get this shot. Had the thorns, mud and ticks to show for our wayward trekking. I believe the photo justifies these short term annoyances.

Not the best photo but for me this image defines my perception of a small town in this area of the world whether its here in Iraq or Afghanistan. A scruffy dusty outpost dominated by the necessary mosque offering its space as a community center. A scene of everyday life taking place coupled with old trucks and the dominate transport the motorbike buzzing by all rung in by a rugged mountain range. I have since passed through many similar towns.

The eyes lead to a normal highway sign, seen in any other country. Its only when looking to the sign in the distance that normality is shifted due to the directions of Baghdad being clearly pointed out. Simply stay straight on this road and in no time you'll be in a city that is known for its recent unrest rather than its incredible defining culture. I was keen if time allowed, hopefully next time. Saying all of this the foreground sign does point out that horse and carts aren't allowed and that's not too normal.

Perhaps this photo is more appealing from a 'being there' situation. Another simple road signs that points the way to Mosul without telling the story that only recently this town was over run by delirious radicals, people who terrorized the local population and destroyed their town. Shot in Erbil a town which itself was close to being overrun itself. Surreal knowing that just down the road life was trying to rebuild itself when all seemed so normal here. Fingers crossed they get back their normality soon.